This is a mid 1970’s Gibson Banjo Resonator. I know that this was the peak of the bad years when the owners of the company made decent bowling balls, bad motorcycles and terrible banjos, but this is only partially typical even for this resonator.
The binding on this resonator was suffering from celluloid rot, a condition where the VOCs in the binding start to evaporate or gas off. Likely, the beginning of that condition was brought about by a breach in the finish. That breach on the top side of this resonator was helped along quite a bit by a metal clip-on (think dog collar clip) strap. In fact, the bind and even the routed lip of the resonator was very badly damaged by that strap clip… so don’t use them… on anything… ever!
I don’t think that I have to provide a lot of narrative here, but it is important to have scrap wood like mahogany any maple for these repairs. Never use pine or plywood for this and make sure that your measurements and gigs, sanders and the other tools you use are as much quality as you can afford. That makes a big difference, no matter what Sammy Shed tells you. Take a look at their finished repair before you decide if they know what they are doing or not.
Overlapping joints are better, but there isn’t much room to work here. I know the binding will overlap this repair and help it structurally as well, but this ins’t likely to move once the glue dries unless it is dropped.
Getting the patch installed is only part of the solution. It then must be shaped, stained and then sealed with lacquer (multiple coats) after the binding is installed.
I never go to a home improvement store and buy a can of ready made stain. That doesn’t work so well on most musical instrument builds and it certainly doesn’t work on repair so well. I use concentrated stains that are solvent neutral and usually use either denatured alcohol or I use lacquer thinner, especially if I am spraying stain onto a repair in an airbrush or jam gun. I will be brushing this on before I feather it in with an air brush.
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